Pacific Crest Trail Oregon: Crater Lake, Mt Hood and 455 miles in 14 days
July 10- 24th | Ashland to Cascade Locks
Crossing the Border: A Mental Reset
After nearly four months of hiking across California, the thought of stepping into Oregon felt surreal. California stretched on endlessly—1,700 miles of exposed desert, snowbound high Sierra passes, and the winding grind of NorCal. Now, in just five weeks, our goal was to cross all of Oregon and Washington.
In Norcal, we did the math to make our goal, and it was daunting: 53 days at an average of 25 miles per day, with little room for error. To bank rest days and build a cushion for injuries, our plan was to push even harder through Oregon’s “easier” terrain. While Washington promised relentless climbs, Oregon was our chance to stack miles. Entering Oregon, we were ten days into the push, and ahead of schedule. Our new goal: to cover all 455 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail Oregon section in just 14 hiking days—plus 2 zeros. For the first time, the impossible felt possible
The terrain didn’t magically change at the border, but our mindset did. Oregon brought fresh energy, a symbolic reset when we desperately needed one. We were tired in a way no rest day could fix—a deep, bone-level fatigue that we knew would only get better when all of this was over– a sobering realization. But the state line gave us just enough hope to keep pressing forward.
Wildfires and the Race Against Nature
Crossing into Oregon didn’t mean the challenges stopped. Wildfires snapped at our heels. Just behind us, a 50-mile section near Etna had closed due to fire, cutting off part of the trail. Thunderstorms to the north sparked new blazes, and smoke filled the air.
On the PCT, fire season dictates your pace. You start in the desert early enough to avoid unbearable heat, but not so early that the Sierra is buried in snow (wow did nature have other plans for us). Then it’s a race through NorCal and Oregon before fire season jeopardizes the trail, all while trying to beat the snow returning to Washington in the fall. Hiking the PCT is a dance with nature—an unpredictable one, where the music changes without warning.
By the time we reached Ashland, smoke hung thick in the air. Trail angels Mary and Harry—dear friends and longtime readers of this blog—scooped us up, fed us, and clothed us. Their generosity extended to our trail family too, who passed through ten days later and declared them the best angels of the entire trail.
After a much too quick zero, we hiked back out, only to be rerouted around a small new fire. Wildland firefighters guided us along a path they had literally cut with fire hoses.
Ashland to Crater Lake: Mosquito Madness
The stretch from Ashland to Crater Lake tested us in a way no mountain pass ever had. It wasn’t the climbs or the distance—it was the monotony. Days blurred together in a green tunnel with little view, long 30+mile pushes, and swarms of mosquitoes so thick they felt inescapable.
I started each morning fully suited in rain gear, gloves, and a head net, even in the heat (I wish I had a photo of this, but all we could do was keeping moving as fast as we could). The droning buzz around my face was maddening. Lunch meant pitching the tent just to hide inside, turning our oversized bug net into the only sanctuary.
Laughter was always the best way we found to push through a hard day
We laughed so hard at this sign! How is this helpful and what would it change?
3 day resupply from Ashland to Crater Lake
The trail itself was dusty and unconsolidated. With every step, clouds of dirt ballooned up and sank into our shoes, leaving our feet blackened. Swimming was impossible with mosquitoes waiting at the shoreline. Daydreaming about showers became obsessive. Each night we crawled sticky, filthy, and drained into our tent—knowing tomorrow would be the same.
When we finally reached Crater Lake, the cold camp showers and burgers from the grill felt like bliss. For once, the showers weren’t coin-operated, so I took the time to scrub my clothes beneath the water too. It took so long for the water to not rinse black.
Trail magic!
We were shocked. How were there STILL patches of snow?
The joys of snowy traverses and mosquitos at the same time ;)
New Friendships and Deep Conversations
Leaving Crater Lake, we hiked out with a couple who quickly became close friends. Out here, time works differently. Conversations stretch for twelve hours, and within days you know each other’s life stories. The trail breaks down barriers faster than anything else in life.
A highlight of this section was this magical campsite we happened upon. One of our favorites on trail!
Bend: Rest, Family, and Reluctance
Soon we reached Bend, where we had planned a zero with my godmother. The timing was perfect. We arrived utterly exhausted, and in the comfort of family, I finally allowed myself to rest. We caught up on sleep, ate nourishing meals, and enjoyed feeling at home.
But when the time came to return to the trail, dread settled in. My godmother dropped us back at the Three Sisters Wilderness, and the weight of getting back into the grind felt heavy.
A Shift in Energy: Entering the Pacific Northwest
The next morning, the trail shifted. Fog drifted in, the air turned crisp, and the trees grew taller and had a darker hue of green. For the first time since Mexico, I truly felt like I was back in the Pacific Northwest.
This was home. I’d spent over 15 years of my life in the PNW, and these mountains are sacred to me. The homecoming brought chills, a deep emotional reset I didn’t realize I needed.
We made it— to the long awaited berry season, and we were absolutely giddy!
From here on out, hands remained a stained purple hue— this was type of dirty I didn’t mind one bit
2,000 mile marker! Only 650 to go.
Moody and gorgeous. I loved it.
Timberline Lodge and Mount Hood
From there, we pushed towards Timberline Lodge, perched at the base of Mount Hood. The expansive views, alpine ridges, and a legendary buffet lunch filled us with gratitude and renewed energy. The worst of the mosquitos were behind us, the terrain opened up, and our flow returned.
Toward Washington: Moss, Waterfalls, and the Bridge of the Gods
As we closed in on the border, the landscape transformed. Moss carpeted trees, water sources became abundant, and wild berries lined the trail. Bathing became easier, and small luxuries added up to big morale boosts.
The final miles into Cascade Locks included walking through the infamous Silver Falls waterfall– gorgeous and mossy, a true pacific northwest experience.
And then it appeared: the Bridge of the Gods, the iconic gateway into Washington.
We had made it through Oregon. Standing at the edge of the Columbia River, we reflected on just how far we had come. It had taken nearly four months to make it across California, but in Oregon, we had covered all 455 miles in just 14 hiking days, plus 2 rest days. The contrast was staggering. Oregon had demanded everything from us —endurance, grit, patience—but it also gave us the momentum and confidence we needed to press into the final stretch of the Pacific Crest Trail.
And now, the home stretch awaited.
